Monday, April 12, 2010

french: i strongly recommend SAVEURS



SAVEURS
No. 14, Lane 219, Fuxing S. Rd, Sec 1
(02) 2751-0185

hours: lunch 11:30am to 2pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm. Closed Sundays and first Monday every month.

$$

saveurstw.com (Chinese only blog)

Kid friendliness: no high chairs spotted. quite tight space and actually never seen kids there, but kids are welcome

Visit reviewed: 6/23/2009 & 6/27/2009



One of the great perks about this blog is that my friends are always saying, "Oh, I have to introduce you to this restaurant," or "You have to try a bite of my dish." So when my friend S invited a gaggle of our friends to lunch at Saveurs, I couldn't refuse. Saveurs redefined my concept of French food- it's not all about foie gras and truffles and crepes, nor about Chef so and so who's famous for what and what. There's so much more to it- and who thought I'd discover that here in Taipei.



At first glance, you might dismiss Saveurs as another one of those "Western but local" restaurants with its simple and unassuming (almost hidden) storefront and decor, or for its lunch set menu priced at NT$400. That would definitely be a mistake.



French food for US$12? Two pastries at Paul would cost you more than that, but here you'd get not just a main dish, but also a set complete with soup, salad and dessert. How good could it be, I thought? As soon as I tasted dish after dish, I couldn't believe the deal we were getting. I would much rather eat dazzling food in ordinary decor than eat ordinary food in dazzling decor. I'm sure most of you would agree.



If you missed the sign in the front of the day's specials, the waiter rushes through them in Chinese. The first time I went, they handed us the menu, but the following times I didn't get one. Everyone is going to get the lunch special deal anyways. Sometimes they are out of duck or a certain dessert, so make your reservation for the earlier part of lunch hour if you have your heart set on something.

The sliced french bread is soft and addictive, especially if you smear the butter or tapenade on it.



The set appetizers can be upgraded to other appetizers- my friend got escargot (seemingly bathed in pesto) and I mistakenly upgraded to the tuna nicoise salad. I thought when he said tuna in Chinese that he meant that salad, when in fact it was a tuna tartar appetizer.




The soup is always the same, my friend lamented- but I didn't mind. The carrot soup is the perfect consistency and light.



Soon the main dishes come streaming out- our plates of duck, steak, and souris (or braised lamb shank) bathing in different sauce, with a few broccoli florets and a dense serving of baked potato gratin. I could not believe we were getting these portions for NT$400. I expected small, fancy restaurant portions, but we got hearty, rustic sized plates.



I was giddy with excitement with the number of fat slices of duck I had. Then I could not stop eating my dish. The staple of Saveurs, for me, are the sauces. I couldn't quite pinpoint the flavors, but they were sweet, savory and brought out the flavors of the various meats. Okay, yes the duck and lamb shank are perfectly tender and hearty, but the sauce I wanted to lick clean off the plate. Seriously.




Those with a lighter appetite can opt for the fish, but I had a bite of my friend's lamb shank and resolved to order that on my next visit. In truth, I wish I could eat both dishes at the same time. Bring good friends that will share.

Look at the size of this! For NT$400!!



And then come the wonderful desserts.



All of them are equally mouthwatering, but I have to admit my heart belongs to the chocolate moellux- it's like a chocolate cupcake with crack- spongy soft cake with hints of dark chocolate, brownie like top, warm molten lava center. It's a good size too, unlike some places where it's mini sized and gone in two bites.



If you're not a fan of chocolate, there's something for everyone from least sweet to most- an airy cloud of meringue with floating on vanilla sauce, apple tart, crackly creme brulee.





I'd never seen *just* meringue served- usually it's something more flavorful like lemon pie, but it was an interesting texture by itself.

Let's look at the chocolate molleux again from another visit....



Mmmm...



I've had a few disappointing experiences at restaurants where they were famous for the chef that founded them- yet most likely my meal wasn't made by so and so chef so they didn't live up to the hype and expectations. But at this nondescript little restaurant, I had one of the most unexpectedly wonderful meals by a chef whose name I wouldn't know if I didn't look him up on the internet, who isn't famous.

But he should be. Thanks Chef Patrick Cabirol. Even my grandma loved the food!

Dinner sets run from NT$550-$1100 and advance reservations are strongly recommended.



Each time I went to the 25+ seat restaurant it was packed with couples and groups equally enjoying their food. I'm glad Saveurs won favorite French restaurant in the hungryintaipei reader's poll this year, but hopefully I can still get a seat the next time I want to go!


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Saturday, April 10, 2010

revisited/korean: HAPPY KOREAN



HAPPY KOREAN CUISINE
No. 1, Lane 99, Xin Yi Road, Sec 3
(02) 2703-9237

hours: Lunch: 11:30AM- 2PM;
Dinner 5:30PM- 8:30PM
(closed every second and fourth Monday of each month)

$$

Kid friendliness: high chairs available.

Visit reviewed: 4/8/2010
Previous review: 4/15/2008 - previously a strong recommend

A relationship with a restaurant is a lot like one with your friends (or lovers) in real life. With some friends, years can pass, hairstyles can change, babies are born, but once you see them- it's like nothing has changed. The conversation is nonstop, laughter makes your cheeks hurt and you can't believe so many years have passed since you've first met. Those are the golden ones. A restaurant you can return to after years and still savor the same flavors and favorite dishes that made you first fall in love with the place.

With other relationships, you might wonder what you did wrong to get the cold shoulder from your former BFF- awkward pauses in the conversation, having nothing in common anymore and feeling sadness realizing that somehow you've grown in different directions that can't be sustained by past experiences. I think these feelings for me are intensified since moving to Taipei- distance and time really magnifies those unbreakable friendships or the fact that people move on when you're gone and you can no longer connect with them.

Happy Korean is now my former BFF and I'm really sad. I don't know when and I don't why, but my formerly favorite lunch spot for Korean food has changed owners. And the changes the new management has taken will definitely hurt its business.

I stopped in for lunch yesterday, excited to grab a heaping bowl of bulgogi over rice and maybe some cold noodles and was surprised to find that the area that used to house a little play area for kids was gone. It now had the fridge for drinks and prep/storage area for the panchan. Then when we got the menu, it was about five wooden spoons with black sharpie writing on it, with Chinese on one side, English on the other. There was bulgogi, bimbimbap, ginseng chicken soup, a stirfried squid dish and a pork belly, with prices about NT$100 more than before per dish.

I asked about the old menu and that's when we learned that Happy Korean had a new owner. I asked if the bulgogi was the same (otherwise I'd get the hard-to-mess-up bimbimbap in a stone bowl) and she said yes, but just not over rice. I think she said that they had the same chef, but now I'm doubtful.

Our panchan came out quickly enough, but it was slightly different from previous experiences. Gone were the japchae glass noodles, instead some pickled radishes. Another customer came in seemed surprised by the new menu.

When we got our food, I had a bad feeling because it didn't look the same. And it wasn't. It was slightly tougher as thicker slices. The entire time I was eating it, I lamented to my friend how I couldn't believe it. If I had been there for the first time, I might have thought the place was decent, but once you compare something average to something you loved, it can't hold up. I mourned the loss like it was a real relationship.

The funniest thing is that today I got an unsolicited text from my friend. She went there for dinner yesterday while she didn't know I had stopped by for lunch on the same day.

"I went to happy korean kitchen last night. apparently the owner has left and the food was terrible! only six items on the menu. i miss my cold noodle! :("


So I definitely can't strongly recommend Happy Korean anymore, but will be happy to hear if anyone has a different experience in the future. Anyone know of a new BFF who will serve us some cold naengmyun or galbi jjim?

Have you ever went back to a favorite restaurant to discover it was gone or no longer the same?

Wednesday, April 07, 2010

dessert: i strongly recommend GELATERIA COSI O COSI



GELATERIA COSI O COSI
No. 153, Dun Hua S. Road, Sec. 1

MRT: ZhongXiao/DunHua

$

Kid friendliness: some small tables and chairs. samples available.

Visit reviewed: 3/2/2010



You scream, I scream, we all scream for.... gelato? Doesn't quite have the same ring to it as ice cream, but if you're wandering around the ZhongXiao and DunHua intersection or maybe just finished up a mala spicy hotpot dinner with a large group of friends (like I just had), then Gelateria Cosi O Cosi is the perfect place to end up. The bright sorbet colored interior complete with an Italian sculpture fountain and tile mosaic decor will draw curious people passing by in, but the creamy looking gelatos and samples will seal the deal. Choose from fruit flavored sorbets like kiwi, lemon, raspberry or banana, or sweeter flavors like tiramisu or the fudgey looking chocolate.




After trying a few different spoonfuls of samples, I settled on picking the slightly tart and sweet Cioccolato al Yogurt, that had chunks of dark chocolate mixed in a yogurt gelato.



Fulfilling my froyo and chocolate cravings in one scoop, the portion was a good size for NT$90 and actually too much for me after a filling dinner. The tartness of the yogurt flavor seemed to build after each bite, while some like the limoncello, are sharp at the first bite. It's too bad you can't get 2 different flavors for less than NT$150 or two scoops- but I guess you'll have to get more samples or bring friends so you can taste theirs.




Most popular among my friends seemed to be the ciocolatto al menta or mint chocolate chip. This is a definite front runner for my top choice for my next visit.



I love how each flavor has their own scooper spoon sticking out, ready for action. Gelato is typically made in smaller batches and have a shorter shelf life for peak flavors than ice cream, so it tastes fresher because it is. Opened by the owners of Cosi o Cosi right next door, it's a great addition to the diversifying Taipei dessert scene.

Monday, April 05, 2010

hotpot/taiwanese: i recommend QIAO TOU HOTPOT



QIAO TOU HOTPOT
(or BRIDGE HEAD HOTPOT)
No. 157, Dun Hua S. Rd, Sec 1, 2FL
(02) 2777-5608

MRT: ZhongXiao/DunHua

hours: 5:30 PM - 3 AM

$$ cash only

Kid friendliness: no high chairs spotted; spicy side of hot pot will be too spicy for most kids

Visit reviewed: 3/2/2010



Qiao Tou is the kind of mala hotpot place for seasoned mala huo guo eaters who know what they want and how to do it.



There's no menu with pictures or English (you order off a check off sheet), the accompanying sauces are off to the back near the counter with no explanation of the right soy sauce/vinegar/chili ratio, and even the location is a bit hard to find with a 2nd floor location with a might-miss-it sign and an entrance that looks like you might be going up an apartment building. (It's a couple doors down from Cosi o Cosi.)



But once you get into your groove, it is good. I managed to get a good 50/50 ratio of soy sauce and vinegar with a dash of sesame oil (I think) to offset the spiciness of the mala soup and add a level of complementary sourness. I like to alternate scooping up stuff from the spicy and the non-spicy side to save my tastebuds from total numbness. When you first sit down, it might feel a little cold with the fans and air con, but you'll appreciate it when it starts getting warm from the steam from the hotpot and heat from the spiciness.

One of my favorites is the crispy you tiao to dip in the deep red soup, but a few seconds is long enough if you want to still have some crunch.



You can't overthink mala huo guo- the murky, blood red broth is complete with big chunks of all-you-can-refill congealed duck's blood- otherwise it starts to look like a meal only a vampire would love. (A perfect date night idea for the Twilight lovers in your life to role play, anyone?). Over the years, ya xue or duck's blood has grown on me- the unique firm and jelly-like texture, more meaty than tofu, accented with a coat of spiciness from being boiled in the pungent soup.

Some won't be able to stomach it, while others crave it.



And speaking of stomachs, I wasn't a fan of the tripe, which has a crunchy chewy bite feels like trying to eat an oversized rubber band with goosebumps.



Instead, try the pillowy handmade fish dumplings, and swish around the fresh cabbage leaves and slices of meat until they wilt and curl up.




Or the chewy slices of pork intestines.



For the uninitiated (or vegetarians), a menu that includes duck's blood, pig's stomach and intestines and chicken feet can sound horrifying, but know that you can enjoy mala hotpot without ordering those items. And if you can't handle the heat, you can stick to one side of the pot.

For first mala hotpot first timers, I can see how a place like the popular Tripod King works better with its English menu filled with pictures, but at Qiao Tou you have a lot more elbow room and don't have to wait hours for a table without a reservation.

A complimentary grass jelly dessert comes to the table after the meal, but skip it and wander to next door neighbor Gelateria Cosi o Cosi instead, like we did, to soothe the lingering heat in your mouth.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

brunch/western: i recommend THE DOOR



THE DOOR
No. 26, Lane 57, Dazhi St.
Dazhi District
(02) 8509-8786

hours: Sun-Thurs 10AM- 9PM; Fri/Sat 10AM-10PM

$$

Kid friendliness: no high chairs but a few strollers spotted

Visit reviewed: 2/28/2010



If you live in Taipei long enough, one of things you start craving (besides Mexican food) is a hearty American breakfast. After awhile, even the thought of IHOP or Denny's sounds good, where you can get breakfast for dinner, lunch or breakfast. So where to look if you're too lazy to make your own pancakes, french toast or eggs?

You can try hitting up the various hotels in Taipei, like I did once with my cousin on the prowl for a good waffle in Taipei, but that can be pricey and their window for breakfast stop once the clock hits a certain time.

Those that have shared that craving with me have probably heard of the Diner- one of the most popular breakfast places in town to get your omelettes, pancakes and American style breakfast everyday, all day. Or there are a number of other players in town including Posh, NY Bagel, Hsiang Brunch, Good Day, Swensens.



So it was only a matter of time that the Diner concept would spread to other parts of the city and when I heard about the Door, I had to give it a try. A cozy, cafe-like, all day breakfast spot tucked in the alleys in Dazhi, the Door is too similar to the Diner to be a coincidence. While researching both for the blog, I realized even their Chinese names are similiar! The Diner's Chinese name is Le Zi (or Fun) and the Door's Chinese name is Le Duo (or Fun More or More Fun)



The biggest piece of evidence is the menu and the execution of the dishes- one glance at the menu and Diner fans will probably be feeling dejavu- items are pretty much in the same order and style as the Diner, with pancakes, french toast, breakfast burritos, eggs benedict, omelettes, hamburgers and menu items like meatloaf, country fried steak, pasta and lasagna.




But perhaps the fact that the Door is just like the Diner is good thing for the residents in Dazhi- they'll have a breakfast place to patron without having to leave the neighborhood.

The Asparagus and Chicken omelette was fluffy and stuffed with diced chicken, asparagus and melted cheese, but the potatoes o'brien were a bit soggy.



I'd also recommend the plain pancakes plate over the blueberry pancakes as there were so many blueberries in the pancakes, it was a bit overkill. They were also canned blueberries, so it wasn't as fresh tasting as it could have been.



But the regular pancakes were perfectly fluffy and soft, best eaten hot.



I actually wanted to try the burger and so I got a Swiss and Mushroom hamburger which I did enjoy. It had a thick patty and plenty of cheese and sliced mushrooms. The meat to bun proportion was good and the bun tasted like an American bun should, not sweet like some Taiwanese buns.



The Door doesn't take reservations, but we were able to snag a table for 6 without a wait before noon on a Saturday, but I can't promise you won't have a wait! It might be a bit tricky to find or park, so take a look at a map before you head over.


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OTHER LOCATION

Taida Campus
No. 188, Guo Ji 3rd St Da Xue Rd
(02)3501-2221


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:)