Monday, May 21, 2012

italian/michelin chef: i recommend LA FESTA



LA FESTA 理想的聚餐
No. 168 Jingye 4th Rd 台北市中山區敬業四路168號2樓
(02) 6602-5671

MRT: Jiannan

website: La Festa's FB Page

hours: Lunch: 12PM - 3PM (11:30 on weekends); Dinner: 6PM - 10PM

$$-$$$

visit reviewed: 8/21/2011 & 11/2/2011 & 12/18/2011 & 5/12/2012


Opened last summer, La Festa is a gorgeous Italian restaurant in Dazhi opened by Chef Igor Macchia, who owns one-Michelin-starred La Credenza in Italy.  La Festa is located at Victoria Hotel, which also has one my favorite steak restaurants in Taipei, No. 168 Prime Steakhouse. The first time I went last August to La Festa, I was so happy with my food and experience that I was almost tempted to "meet the chef" which I never do, so I just spied on Chef Macchia from afar, guiding the dishes and busy chefs at the open kitchen. 




Much like its neighbor No. 168 Prime Steakhouse, when you choose a set menu, you have choices for starter, soup or salad, main course and dessert. At La Festa, you also get a choice of a pasta. (Though the menu sets change from time to time) Or you could always order ala carte, which is surprisingly affordable with pastas around NT$400.


linguine con carbonara

calzone



Now that I look at these pictures, it seems that there were quite a number of chefs in the busy kitchen the first time I went, at least 8, probably some of them being trained. I realized now that my following two visits, I did not see as many, perhaps the reason for the food coming out at such a slower pace.


Dinner started out with a bountiful spread of bread on a rustic wood serving platter, along with an olive tapenade, olive oil and tomato spread.


Although you first few times I went, you could choose each part of your meal through the choices they offered with the price determined by your main dish, the last time I went for dinner it was just 3 different sets. I liked being to pick and customize the things I liked, though first time customers might be overwhelmed with choices and just want to pick whatever is in their price range.


I chose Uovo Morrido (soft boiled egg), which was one of my favorite dishes of each visit. The richness of the slow cooked soft boiled egg melded perfectly with the creamy, buttery mashed potato.


The Zuppa Di Pesce (seafood broth) was meant to be shared between two, and was full of fresh seafood.



I loved the Risotto Ai Pepperoni (risotto with red pepper, parsley and anchovies) so much that I made sure to order it on my following visits, with a creamy sweetness from the red pepper and briny saltiness from the anchovies. It was unlike any risotto I'd had before, usually cheesy or truffled, but it didn't need that. It was served al dente and the risotto still spread on the plate, which is said to be the perfect consistency unlike a lot of clumpy risottos I've eaten in Taipei.


The Filetto Di Manzo (filet mignon roasted, smoked potato and foie gras, black truffle) (NT$2080/dinner set) was another perfect combination for me. A little piece of carmelized foie gras to savor and medium rare steak to eat as ladylike as possible. I love how all the dishes were presented with such flair.




The Gelato melted a little before I got a chance to take a picture. I think I was too busy talking with the relatives.


My sister chose Tagiliere Di Salumi (cold cut selection), Cappucino di Astice (Lobster Cappucino), Agnolotti Del Plin (served on napkin), Agnello Al Caffe (marinated coffee lamb, roast corn sauce) and tiramisu (NT$1880/dinner set). I sampled here and there, and loved all her dishes too. 




The Agnolotti Del Plin is like a dry ravoli, and it's kind of startling to see it uncovered on a dry napkin, which is one of Chef Macchia's signatures. But the simplicity of the dish brings out the flavors of the pasta and ingredients. It doesn't look like a huge portion, but it's enough for a multi-course dinner.


Agnello Al Caffe (marinated coffee lamb, roast corn sauce)-  the lamb is tender and served medium rare and the corn has a sweetness and aroma from the coffee which dots the plate.





Some other dishes I spied on the table from other relatives that night...


Ravioli Liquidi - the broth is inside the ravioli and eaten with the duck underneath, the juice oozes out like out of a xiao long bao.






Lunch at La Festa a few months later was the chance to try some new dishes and revisit my favorites. A few of my friends were going for the first time, but the ones that had been before reminded the waiters that we had to leave at a certain time, that we wanted our food as quickly as possible. It still took about two hours from start to finish, I think some had to leave before dessert was served.



Prep work done during lunch...


At first we thought these were for desserts, but it turned out they were dollops of mashed potato for the caesar salads.



For larger groups, they sat us in the back, in semi private rooms.


Lunch set menu



After a few months, I had hoped La Festa would have worked out all the areas in their service and kitchen, but for whatever reason, the pacing seemed slower with each visit. But the four course lunch set prices were surprisingly affordable, depending on what main dish you chose (NT$700-900 for pastas and NT$880-$2200 for grilled meats and lobster)- especially in contrast with other Michelin-starred chef branded restaurants around Taipei.


We were all munching on bread for at least 30 minutes before any food came out, it's unfortunate that some people were too full to appreciate the rest of their meal. With a set menu with so many moving parts, it's too bad they couldn't push out some of the soups and salads quicker.



 My favorite Uovo Morrido (soft boiled egg) was still delicious.



Other starters that I stole shots of from my friends...

Tagiliere Di Salumi (cold cut selection)




Terrina di Bollito (meat terrine)


Pesce Spada Affumicato (lightly smoked swordfish)


For lunch, a choice of soup or salad...


An elegantly plated Caesar salad



or healthy vegetable Minestrone di Verdure soup. The slice of parmesean added a nice layer of flavor.



Love how bright the risotto ai pepperoni (NT$720/set)  is. Can you tell I tend to reorder what I like?



Ravioli Liquidi, ravioli filled with pigeon meat (NT$880/lunch set)


Agnolotti del plin 


One of my friends ordered a truffle arugula pizza ala carte (NT$1380) as the main dish for her lunch set.


The flavors of the gelato were a treat, I think one was milk and the other was raspberry. I loved the creaminess and sweetness of the milk mixed with the slight tartness of the raspberry. You might spot the ice cream making machine near La Festa's kitchen.


At La Festa, the tiramisu is served tableside, filling the ladyfingers with fresh cream and marscapone cheese.



My third visit with more relatives was unfortunately the worst. The food took much too long to come out of the kitchen, with long awkward gaps between each dish, the service was lacking with no introduction to dishes as well as a mishap at the end of the meal, and the food itself was not as good as previous visits. With all the waiting, the dinner was over 3 hours long, with 6:30PM reservations and leaving close to 10PM. It was like visiting a different restaurant entirely, or maybe there were just different people in the kitchen and waitstaff. If I had written my review after my first visit or second visit, it would have been a definite strong recommend, but unfortunately combined with that visit, it's a recommend. I know Chef Macchia regularly comes back to Taipei to check on the restaurant, hopefully he can shake things up every now and then and expedite and quality control the dishes that I had fallen in love with. 


The menus were no longer mix and match, now it was choosing from 3 different dinner sets and prices, at NT$1600, $2500 or NT$3500.


The amuse bouche was same across the table and a terrible first impression. It was like a overdone chicken sausage from an airplane meal and seemed more Taiwanese than Italian. It would have been better to serve nothing. Definitely not what I'd expect from a restaurant from a Michelin starred chef or from a US$100 meal.

I don't know if I was mistaken in wanting to try new dishes or we happened to go on a bad night. The dishes in my set were good, but not amazing with layers of flavor and didn't leave a lasting impression as before and more expensive as the priciest set of NT$3500. Otherwise for the same prices, I'd go back to the consistently delicious No. 168 Prime Steakhouse just a button away in the elevator.

Carpaccio di Aragosta (lobster carpaccio with lemon and tomato confit)



Vitello Tonnato (roasted beef tenderloin, tuna sauce and tomato). I wish there had been some introduction to the dish by the server, on how to best to eat it, or even what the elements were. I had to keep checking the menu or asking to know what I was eating.


Crema di Mais e Foie Gras (sweet corn soup, foie gras, spinach and powdered porcini mushroom) was a strange combination- the stringy spinach was disparate from the corn soup and the foie gras was not the center of the dish, flavor wise.


Ravioli di Mozzarella (homemade mozzarella and basil ravioli, tomato sauce and fresh sauteed vegetables) 


Tagliolini All Astice (Italian homemade tagliolini served with 1/2 lobster and lobster bisque). I thought this dish would have a creamier, sweeter flavor, but the lobster flavor was not that strong. I'd still choose the red pepper risotto over this in the future.



Sorbetto (palate cleanser)


Filetto di Manzo (grilled beef tenderloin, smoked mashed potato, foie gras and black truffle)


Even the Gelato al tartufo (vanilla ice cream, olive oil and freshly sliced black truffle) was a bit glass-half empty looking compared to the bountiful gelato I was served at lunch a few weeks earlier. And truffle withe desserts always seems a bit strange to me.


Our table was waiting at least 10 minutes for our vegetarian set's dessert to come out even after we had all finished ours. After walking to find a waitress near the kitchen area, she said his set didn't come with a dessert. It was very strange since a) they asked him what dessert he wanted and b) the cost was the same as the other sets, so why wouldn't there be a dessert. The point wasn't even that he wanted the dessert, since we had been there for almost 3 hours and were ready to all go home, the point was the confusion in the service and the miscommunication with the staff. The manager came out after apologizing and wanting to give him a dessert, but by that time, it was too late. The lack of consistency in food and service can make or break a restaurant, but hopefully it was a one time event.

complimentary petit fours to take home


After that last time, it took us awhile to return to La Festa, but luckily we did. I recently went back for a pre-Mother's Day dinner with my relatives, and service and food had seemed to returned to excellent levels. Perhaps they were staffed up and prepared for the rush, or maybe because I stuck to my favorites (the soft boiled egg, the lobster bisque and asked to change out my dessert) in the cheapest set that still satisfied. 

I'd say go for lunch if you want to try it and be able to choose your set components, but go for dinner if you want to splurge. La Festa does serve up some innovative Italian dishes that taste as good as they look and Chef Macchia returns every so often to Taipei for special menus and events. 

Thursday, May 17, 2012

indian: i strongly recommend MAYUR INDIAN KITCHEN



MAYUR INDIAN KITCHEN 馬友友印度廚房
350-5 Keelung Rd, Sec. 1 台北市基隆路一段350號之5
0921-004-175/0981-917-977

(I revisited Mayur six years later in 2018 and it's very different from this post- check it out here! Updated post: 5/2018)

MRT: Taipei City Hall 


hours: 11:30 am – 9:30 pm 

$-$$ cash only (average NT$135-400)

Kid friendliness: no high chairs available. seating outdoors on sidewalk

Visit reviewed: 3/2/2012 & 5/11/2012



My cousin S was my "intro to Taipei" of sorts. When I first moved back almost 8 years ago, she had been working and living here and was one of the few people I knew. She joined me on a search for waffles in Taipei. She picked restaurants like J Pop cafe based on decor instead of food. Then work whisked her away for a few years- to China, to LA, but recently now back to Taipei, where now our roles are reversed- now I'm choosing the spots for lunch and she's the one who needs guiding.


Located in the Xinyi district, Mayur Indian Kitchen is an apt name for the restaurant- the kitchen takes up most of the space, and the dining area are tables arranged outside on the sidewalk with a good view of the Taipei Grand Hyatt. It was my first time eating "hole in the wall" Indian food, unless you counted the wraps I've gotten from Taipei night markets and LA food trucks. I was a little nervous about choosing a place to meet my cousin that I definitely didn't pick for decor, but luckily the food won us both over.


It's a bit hard to find since the address is 350-5. What the dash means is that it's somewhere near, behind or around the building with the first number. So when my taxi dropped me off at the corner of Keelung Rd (or is it Jilong now? Oh these changes drive me crazy) and Song Shou Rd, I still had to find the right number. Mayur Indian Kitchen is located closer to the corner of Keelung and RenAi, so look for the signage there and then seat yourself.  The street in front of Mayur is one way and surprisingly quiet, so sitting on the sidewalk is not that bad. On a more recent visit, the seating had doubled to about 7-8 tables and a little cover had been for the rain/sun.


The most popular items seemed to be the lunch set served on metal trays, with chicken, beef, lamb or vegetable curries for NT$135/155, but my cousin and I wanted the good stuff. We asked for a menu and started to quiz the server.


The menu has quite few selections of meat and vegetarian curries, appetizers, naans and desserts. Naan came in both savory and sweet flavors, as well as with cheese and served like a pizza. No water is served, but drinks are available to purchase, like Limca or Kingfisher beer. Mayur Indian Kitchen also offers catering as well as to-go orders.


We ended up ordering a few things to start and kept ordering more as we tasted the food. The tandoori chicken (NT$120) was served as a thigh/leg, along with a plastic glove, at which we laughed, since that is often spotted at some of the food court restaurants in Taipei. We asked for a knife to split the chicken to share, and I think the chef gave us one of his cutting knives since people usually just get the curry lunch sets or devour the whole thing by themselves? The chicken was tender and flavorful, though not as bright red as I've seen it in other restaurants.


Then came our chicken tikka masala. The chicken is served on the bone and can be a bit of a pain to eat. On my second visit, the curry was served in a bigger plate and the chicken was cut, but still on the bone, which made it slightly easier to scrape off the meat and dip the naan into the curry without making a mess.


The butter naan (NT$55) is perfectly chewy and crispy and cut into pieces to share.


The rice is not basmati rice so I was slightly disappointed, but I still ate a little with the curry.


We ended up having to reorder the spinach, or palak paneer when we realized it never came. When the chicken tikka masala came out, I had thought, what a great portion size, two bowls, but it turned out that we had a miscommunication and when we thought we were ordering saag paneer, or spinach with paneer cheese, he thought we wanted just the paneer cheese inside the curry. But I've visited Mayur Indian Kitchen recently and the menu has been updated, including items like palak paneer with photos so that there's no confusion. There's also a good selection of vegetarian dishes, like lentils or aloo gobi for non-meat eaters.


Samosas (NT$45) come plump and fried, stuffed with bright yellow curried potatoes and peas.



Prices at Mayur Indian Kitchen are quite reasonable for the flavors and portions compared to other Indian restaurants in Taipei and there's definitely been a need for a good Indian spot in the Xinyi area, as my last few visits to mall food court Indian Palace were quite bad. Even though ordering ala carte can get pricier than the lunch curry set (about NT$200-400/person), it's steal for the variety, and still cheaper than taking a taxi to Saffron, my current favorite Indian restaurant in Taipei. 

It's also a good sign that the dishes were consistently good on both visits, as many Indian restaurants in Taipei can be quite inconsistent, or even stray off Indian flavors, as I experienced at a recent first trip to Dazzle Curry Indian restaurant.  

Mayur Indian Kitchen used to have dosas on the menu, but have taken them off the menu due to lack of demand- maybe with advance notice they could make a batch for those craving some.  If you have special requests, like making it extra spicy, or want to order off the menu, give Mayur Indian Kitchen a try. You might that the seats might be all filled up on weekends, as they were much busier on a weekday lunch hour recently than my first visit a few months ago.

OTHER LOCATION

B2, No. 8, Zhongshan 1st Rd, Luzhou District, New Taipei City

Monday, May 14, 2012

taiwanese/noodles: i strongly recommend SLACK SEASON NOODLES



SLACK SEASON NOODLES 
or TU HSIAO YUEH 度小月
No. 12, Alley 8, Lane 216, ZhongXiao E. Rd, Sec. 4 
台北市忠孝東路四段216巷8弄12號     
(02) 2773-1244

MRT: Zhongxiao/Dunhua or SYS Memorial Hall

website: www.iddi.com.tw mostly Chinese

hours: 11:30AM - 11PM

$-$$ (NT$50-300/person)

Kid friendliness: lots of kid friendly options

Visit reviewed: 4/16/2012


I love it when relatives introduce me to new restaurants, especially good Taiwanese ones, and my relatives from NY picked Slack Season Noodles as the place for a casual lunch to meet up. I probably could have passed by the shop a hundred times (next to Yogurt Art) and not have the urge to wander in for a meal, as the subtle exterior and sign hides the modern meets traditional Chinese and dark wood interior, and cheap and delicious food inside.

I often get asked to recommend restaurants (Top five favorites? Gluten-free? Romantic on New Year's Eve? Taiwanese but not Din Tai Fung?), and now I have another one to add to my list for the last question.


The menu is check-off-the-box, but ask for the English menu and you shall receive. With pictures for each menu item too! Just match the number from the menu and use it to check off the matching line item.


Slack Season Noodles originated in Tainan, with a street vendor selling dan dan noodles, a minced pork noodle soup. The restaurant's name comes from the shop's origins- when its founder, a fisherman, created the noodles to make a living during the fishing "slack season" and they became so popular he started selling them full time. Over one hundred years ago in 1895! (Though the menu says 1894, the shop's sign says 1895). Now Tu Hsiao Yueh has expanded to restaurants in Taipei from Tainan, offering affordable Taiwanese eats, like tan tsi mian, lu rou fan (braised pork rice), fried oysters or smoked shark, with nods to its origins with chefs preparing the noodles in the front corner of each restaurant at an old school, street vendor-like area.



Each person got a bowl of tan tsi noodles (or dan zhi or dan zai (oh how romanized spellings drive me crazy) (NT$50). Some chose the classic oil noodle, and I chose the thin vermicelli rice noodle.  You can also order it with or without soup, or add on things like duck egg or meatballs. The flavor is light, but it's not plain, with flavors of garlic, cilantro, vinegar and Taiwanese shallots infused in the broth and meat sauce. For my relatives, this is their equivalent of chicken noodle soup, their comfort food.



The bowl isn't big enough to fill me up, like beef noodle soup or pho, but is just enough to slurp up and accompany a taste of everything on the table, which includes a lot of traditional Tainan style dishes. Everything is fresh and delicious, and luckily we have a big group so we can order plenty of things to share family style. 


smoked goose by tea leaves (NT$200)
braised intestines (NT$200)
deep fried tofu (NT$160)



Pescadore's Squid Ball (NT$150)
I love fried oysters so the crispy oysters (NT$160) hit the spot by coming out hot and yes, crispy, without being fishy or greasy, so I keep popping the bite sized babies in my mouth.


as well as these addictive golden shrimp rolls (NT150) which are similar to Thai shrimp cakes, with fried minced shrimp and fishcake.


Asparagus salad (NT$150)

Hot spring loofah with clams (NT$180)
My cousins and I wanted to get dessert elsewhere (tang yuan at Jiu Ru), but my aunt and uncle insisted on ordering the unique desserts- pumpkin ice cream, jelly and sesame mochi. 




My favorite out of the bunch was the crisp mochi covered in a layer of sesame powder.


I might have been late to the game in finding out about the underrated tan tsi noodles as a must-eat in Taipei, but it holds a lot of nostalgia for many. So add this to your to-do list when in Taipei, or take the high speed rail to the original shop in Tainan.

OTHER LOCATIONS
No. 180, Sec. 2, Zhongshan North Rd., Taipei 台北市中山北路二段180號
 9-1 Yongkang St., Taipei 台北市永康街9-1號
No. 16 Zhongzheng Rd, Tainan (Original shop) 台南市中正路16號
 No. 101, Zhongzheng Rd, Tainan 台南市中正路101號

Wednesday, May 09, 2012

news: spring 2012 Taipei restaurant round up



Wow! This is my 600th post!

CLOSED
Cactus was a new Mexican restaurant in town, but was closed when I tried to visit in April and posted on their FB page that it is closed permanently though the chef may reopen elsewhere.
- Eddy's Cantina in Danshui is closed- but you can still find Eddy at his Tianmu location.
- Fu Diner closed its second (and last) location. Now where to find creamy omu-rice?
- JB Burger closed
- I-Sushi closed
- Sweet Dynasty closed (It's sad seeing the restaurants emptied and gutted)
- I-Baked in Shida will closes today. Still has a location in Xinyi area
- Mu Kung Hwa Korean Viand on Zhongxiao closed. Always passed by, but never tried it.
- Masala House in Shida had been on my to-do list for a long time, but now it's gone. Sigh.


OPENED (I've eaten at almost all of them- which one do you want me to post about first?)
- Joy's Creperie near the Taipei City Bus Station in the Xinyi district near the freeway ramp entrance
- Santouka Ramen opened to long lines at Fuxing Sogo (and it looks the same as Japanese chain that people line up for in LA!) as did Ippudo Ramen, famous from Japan and NY
- Yo Shabu Shabu near Yong Kang Street
- Tartine Bakery in January serving desserts, macarons and sandwiches
- Cyclo, new pho restaurant
- Acquatic Addiction Development, a fish market renovated by Mitsui, has locals going crazy over the standing only sushi bar and fresh, affordable take away sashimi
- Mayur Indian Kitchen near Grand Hyatt
- Spotted a new branch of Wang Wei Ramen in the alley behind San Want Hotel
- Thai Made on DongFeng
- Bellavita recently made some changes- doubled the seating for Patisserie Sadaharu AOKI and made more room for diners at Elite 
- Will Taiwanese people pay a premium for European chocolates and brands? Pierre Marcolini chocolates and tea area in Xinyi Mitsukoshi A4, near Chanel and priced accordingly, and Jean Paul Hevin at Taipei 101
Toasteria Cafe 3, a roomier place to get your grilled cheese sandwiches and Mediterranean food in Dong Chu East District.

RUMORED
-I heard that Patisserie La Douceur opened a second branch in Daan district, but I cannot find the address. It's not listed on their website. Does anyone know where?

Any other news to add? Do you like the restaurant round ups? Please leave a comment below!

:)