french: i strongly recommend L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

at Bellavita

No. 28, SongRen Road, 5FL, Xinyi District
(02) 8729-2628

MRT: Taipei City Hall

website: robuchon.com.tw

hours: 11:30AM- 2:30PM; 6PM- 10PM 

$$$-$$$$ 

Kid friendliness: not sure if there is a no kid policy, but have never seen kids there. 

Visit reviewed: 10/25/2012

When I saw that Chef Joël Robuchon was going to be in town for a week at the Taipei L'Atelier, I made reservations about a month before the dinner.  I had heard about him being in town before, but never managed to plan ahead, so I was excited to book enough seats for a group of friends dining there for the first time. After all, if you're going to splurge on a meal, it might as well be when the most Michelin-starred chef in the world was in town and everyone in the kitchen should be hustling to deliver.

Opened in 2009, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon was the first restaurant opened in Taipei by a Michelin starred chef. It kicked off the wave of Michelin starred chefs in Taipei that followed- STAY at 101 by Chef Yannick Alleno, La Festa by Chef Igor Macchia, or visiting chefs like Chef Trincado or Chef Batavia. When it first opened, I honestly wondered if there were enough people in Taipei who would want to (and could afford to) dine at Robuchon to keep it in business. I heard good things, but the price tag somehow kept me from going until I felt like there was a special enough reason to go.

Each of the L'Atelier de Joël Robuchons around the world (Paris, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Las Vegas, Singapore and London) feature sushi bar style counter seating in front of an open kitchen, said to be inspired by Robuchon's time spent in Japan. The Taipei branch has dramatic red and black decor, from the moment you step out of the Bellavita elevator onto the 5th floor.

You could sit at the tables along the wall, but it's not as fun as being one of the diners that have a front row seat to the bustling kitchen.

On this night, we were asked to look at three different set menus and choose in advance, to expedite service since the restaurant was fully booked and we had a large group of 9 people. Half of us decided on getting the six course Menu Plaisir (NT$4280), and the other half ordered the eight course Menu Decouverte. Luckily, I got to taste both menus by splitting with a friend, as well as drink the bubbly that was ordered. Everything was divine and there is nothing better than sharing good food with great friends. We oohed and aahed at the plating, the flavors and the company. I was probably the most excited about getting the night's menu signed by Chef Robuchon and our group photo with him.

So here's a look at the Menu Plaisir. Hope the photos from the 4s capture the dishes... I wanted to be quick, so I didn't use my DSLR that night.

L'Amuse Bouche- foie gras mousse, port wine gelee and parmasean foam. Served warm, the sweet and savory flavors mingle together to start the meal. 

L'Hamachi - hamachi tartare with tomato juices and mustard seed. 

Le Potiron- pumpkin soup with country bread crouton and olive oil

Le Cabillaud- pan seared cod in a vierge sauce with a brandade croquette and mashed parsley

Le Boeuf- red wine braised beef cheek with polenta puree. This was pretty amazing.

I was a bit annoyed to find out that despite making reservations a month in advance, and asking for the best night that we did not get the "gala" night and menu, so L'Atelier graciously upgraded those of us with the Plaisir menu with the chocolate sphere instead of the pineapple dessert that came with the set.

It's always exciting when there's pouring action.

Let's crack this baby open...

Yum. Perfect ending to wonderful dinner.

For an all out splurge, go for the Menu Decouverte tasting menu (NT$6880) with 8 courses. There were definitely dishes on this that I felt wowed by over the other menu when you put them side by side. Since I had ordered the Menu Plaisir, and sharing the Decouverte, there were definitely dishes that I wish I could eat the whole plate instead of only half, like the scallops and the foie gras.

La Noix De Saint-Jacques- sea scallop carpaccio with caviar, lemon dressing and chives. Perfection.

Les Palourdes- "Lorighittas" pasta with clams, bottarga and tomatoes flavored with basil concasse. This was really nice. Fresh pasta, not too heavy. The braided shape was unusual and gave for a nice bite.

Le Homard- Steamed lobster ragout with girolle and peas in a bisque

Le Foie Gras- Roasted duck foie gras with carmelized seasonal fruit and almond. 

Yes, thank you.

L'Amadai- Shallow fried Amadai in a fine yuzu flavored daikon consomme with lily bulb.

At first glance, I thought the fish was covered in panko crumbs, but the server explained that it was actually the skin of the fish. 

When fried, the paper thin scales crisp up for a crunchy contrast to the perfectly cooked, tender snapper.

It was quite a trip, trying it for the first time. Definitely more exciting than the cod in the other set.

Le Porc- Pan seared iberico pork with shishito and shallots confit. 

I didn't love this dish, probably because I'm not a big fan of shishito. I ended up eating more of the beef cheek from the other set.

Le Pamplemousse- Fresh grapefruit sorbet with lime jelly. The beginning of the end.

La Vanille- Madagascar vanilla in profiteroles with rum flavor and bitter chocolate sorbet. 

This sculpted dessert was gorgeous, but how can you beat a dome of chocolate? 

Le Cafe Express- Coffee or tea with a macaron.

I had a much more memorable experience this time than I did last summer, when I had a three course lunch and felt slightly underwhelmed by the service and the food, perhaps having too high expectations for my first visit (comparing it to my meals at Abu Authentic and Tutto Bello). I think to dine at a place like L'Atelier, you have to indulge in a tasting menu to get the full ride.  The vibe was also different with the energy of a full house, in contrast to last year where my dining date and I noticed one of the chefs doing a little yelling at the other chefs, one downfall of an open kitchen, I suppose. 

For a mini Robuchon experience, diners can also try SALON DE THE de Joël Robuchon (Bellavita, 3F) which has a more casual menu and afternoon tea, as well macarons and breads available to go. 

Au revoir until we meet again.

Don't forget to vote for your favorite Taipei restaurants in this year's Readers' Choice Poll!

5th ANNUAL 2012 Best of Taipei Restaurants Readers' Favorites Poll

Woo hoo! I didn't forget about the Reader's Choice poll this year, I've just been a little crazed. Let's see if we can get more votes in this year. Will the previous winners take the top spots again? Or will your new favorite ramen/cafe/chirashi spot/coffee shop/bistro win the votes for being one of the favorites in Taipei?

VOTING

Voting will be open from November 28, 2012 - December 20th, 2012. There must be a minimum of 5 categories filled out (with different restaurants) in order for the vote to be counted. For example, you cannot fill out the same restaurant in 3 categories and nothing else. But if you really love that restaurant, vote for it in the applicable 3 categories and fill out 4 other categories, then it will count.

It's okay if you haven't tried everywhere in Taipei! No one has. It does not have to be a restaurant I've reviewed. So just vote for your favorites! So hope all of you that have been reading and learning where the best eats in Taipei can take a few minutes to vote!

You don't have to have a google account to vote. Just enter your name or initials and fill out the boxes underneath with your answer and hit submit at the end.

Also feel free to campaign for your restaurant or favorite eatery on Facebook, Twitter or your website with a link to this page. But only votes on this post will count.

I will tabulate and hope to announce the winners with a write up by end of January 2013 (fingers crossed!).

Remember there must be a minimum of 5 categories filled out (with different restaurants) in order for the vote to be counted. For example, you cannot fill out the same restaurant in 3 categories and nothing else. I reserve the right to cancel out votes that look like cut and paste by the same person/people.

taiwanese/chinese: i strongly recommend LU SANG YILAN DELICACIES

LU SANG 呂桑食堂 (or LV SANG)
No. 12-5 Yong Kang St.
台北市大安區永康街12－5號
(02) 2351-3323

MRT: Dongmen

website: lvsang.myweb.hinet.net

hours: 11:30AM - 2PM; 5PM- 9PM

$-$$ (about $200-300/person)

Kid friendliness: high chairs available

Visit reviewed: 3/29/2010 & 8/22/2010


Yong Kang Street is even more accessible now with the opening of the DongMen MRT stop last month, and will strengthen Yong Kang Jie as a "must eat" tourist destination for Taipei. Adventurous diners looking for real Taiwanese flavors should definitely include Lu Sang on their list. I first tried it a few years ago, as it was one of grandma's favorite places to go for Saturday night family dinner. She loved ordering a whole table full of eats and then treating everyone, exclaiming that the whole dinner was cheaper than than a few dishes at other fancier Chinese restaurants and the food was just was good, if not better. Quite a few other people felt the same way, as it was always crowded when we went for dinner, often with people waiting in front for a table on one of the two floors.



Earlier this year, HungryinTaipei was featured in the CNNGo's article of top 40 Taiwanese eats (look for one of my favorites at number 30). While the list can't cover everyone's favorite, you can find a great bowl of  lu rou fan or braised pork rice (number 1 on the list) Lu Sang, as well as a number of under the radar dishes.

The menu of Yilan dishes is on the wall- brightly lit to point and order. Or you can check out the eats on the counter top. Once you order, the food comes quickly to the table. The selection can be intimidating for a newbie with the large selection and names only in Chinese... I've been there multiple times and sometimes I still have to double check the wall when I go.

There's a lot on the menu to explore, but here are my top 3 eats that I must order everytime I come to Lu Sang (and that I think you should too).

(1) Gao Zha or deep fried chicken broth

With all the deep frying craze in the US (deep fried oreos? twinkies? avocados? butter?!), this is something you might imagine seeing at the county fair or at a Michelin starred restaurant, plated prettily with some foam. But instead you can enjoy this Yilan delicacy at Lu Sang.

The first time I tried it, I thought it was fried tofu, but it was a bit too creamy, too silky, too tasty. When my relatives tried to explain to me what it was, they couldn't quite do it. Some internet research showed that gao zha is chicken broth mixed with flour, chilled and sliced into cubes then coated with flour to deep fry. Don't make my previous mistake and accidentally order the fried tofu since the photos look quite similar.. it's definitely not as good. Just remember gao zha!

The result is amazing, though very very hot, so be careful with your first bite. I often cut mine in half to let the steam out and then take a bite of the crispy exterior and let the rest melt in my mouth.

(2) Sliced pig's liver (NT$100) To me, this tastes like a chilled foie gras- with that same creaminess and sweetness to be savored. It's one of those dishes that tastes much better than it looks. 

(3) Sliced cold chicken (NT$180)- usually very tender and juicy, each slice covered with the gelatinous textured skin. One of the more accessible dishes for those that don't want to eat livers or intestines. The meat is similar to Hainan Chicken, but the skin is almost crunchy.

If you order those dishes, you should be good to go, but here are few other dishes to give a try to round out the family style meal

Red Rice Wine Ang Chow Pork (NT$150) -the sauce is sweet and you can slightly taste the alcohol from the glutinous rice wine that's used to make it. I've had times where the pork is very tender (like a roasted char siu) and other times where it was a little tougher/drier.

Pork intestines- fatty and chewy and good

Taiwanese minced pork noodles

Soup noodles

Steamed pork with pickled cucumber with salted egg yolk is like a sweet and savory mini meatloaf, best paired with a bowl of rice- sweet from the Taiwanese style pickled cucumbers and savory from the soy sauce and creamy salted egg yolk atop. I like this dish, but no one else at the table really appreciates it and it's too big for me to finish myself.

Bamboo shoots

Mini hotpot with vegetables and seafood (NT$180)

Fresh vegetable salad with hu feng dressing 

Instead of tea, there's complimentary hot kumquat tea available to self serve in the back. Bottles of the syrup are available to purchase to make at home.

You could always make it a mini meal on an eating tour of Yong Kang Street, instead of lining up for Din Tai Fung, you could hit up the Knife Shaved noodle or the dumpling place and then grab the gao zha and pig's liver and then getting some mango ice. I've never seen any non Taiwanese diners at Lu Sang, but maybe after this post, I'll be seeing a few of you there.

snapshot/taiwanese: i strongly recommend CHUN SHUI TANG's beef noodle soup

Hungry in Taoyuan? Does it have the same ring to it? First time noticing the beef noodle soup (NT$150) on the menu at Chun Shui Tang, while looking for a place to eat at Taimall in Taoyuan.

At Chun Shui Tang, I usually ask for the English menu, even though it doesn't actually list everything that's available on the real, check off menu. So if you're looking for something more than dim sum and drinks, the most filling dish is probably the beef noodle soup. I was pleasantly surprised by the chewy, chubby noodles, the slightly spiciness of the broth and the abundance of tender beef in the bowl. Add the provided pickled vegetables into the dish for a sweet/savory taste and texture to complete the experience.

Loved it. Devoured it.

Also get the fried radish cakes and pearl milk tea, and enjoy the old school tea house ambiance. There's also a Chun Shui Tang at the Taoyuan airport, and at Taimall there's also Starbucks, Movenpick Cafe, Coldstones, Dunkin Donuts, KFC, McDonalds, Sushi Express, 3 Baboons, Casa de Pasta, Karen Teppanyaki, Mr. Onion, Ponderosa and of course, lots of Chinese food and a food court.

What else is good to eat in Taoyuan by the way? (Couldn't find much info in English...)

CHUN SHUI TANG 春水堂
at Taimall, 1F
No. 112, Nankan Rd, Sec. 1,
Taoyuan, Taiwan
台茂購物中心一樓 桃園縣蘆竹鄉南崁路一段112號
(03) 212-9186

For Taipei locations: see previous posts

news/restaurant roundup: where can you find... Thanksgiving in Taipei 2012?

I'm thinking about turkey already. When I first moved back to Taipei over seven years ago (!), one of the holidays I missed most was Thanksgiving. It is really one of the holidays I remember celebrating with my family growing up, and our meals were always a unique American _and_ Chinese spread on the table... turkey stuffed with sticky glutinous rice (my mom's recipe), stir fried green beans sweetened with sugar and soy sauce (my dad's recipe), my favorite candied sweet potatoes, or creamed corn out of the can (my sister and my contribution as kids). Ha ha.

Being apart from my parents and family in Taipei for this holiday, I always tried to figure out how to capture the experience away from home, not always succeeding, especially since I didn't know where to find it. (Anyone seen Stovetop stuffing boxes or cornbread mix in Taipei?) Now I have a great group of family and friends to share the night with, and I take a moment to remember to be grateful for them and all that I have in my life.

So whether you just moved to Taipei, happen to be here on a business trip, or are just craving some turkey, here's a round up of options for you and yours. Some pricing may vary, had to base it on last year's pricing for some.

DINE IN-
Make your reservations now and if you pick buffet style, show up early to make sure you get enough turkey. Some restaurants offer turkey dinners throughout the weekend.

CARNEGIES
DAN RYANS
GRAND HYATT TAIPEI (buffet)
ROBIN's GRILL
THE TAVERN
GRANDMA NITTI'S
BRASS MONKEY
Check last year's Taipei Times article for details on the above restaurants.


TOAST BAR (02) 2737-0037

• $480 lunch/ $580 dinner. Available Thursday and Friday
• Manhattan clam chowder soup, roast turkey with stuffing, mashed potatoes, sausages, vegetable casserole, cranberry sauce and cranberry cheese pie

SHAFFER'S KITCHEN (02) 8789-4088

• $1,000/adult, $500/child. Discounts available for reservations of 8 or more. Turkey dinner available 11/22-25
• Roasted fresh Taiwan turkey (from carved turkey, seconds allowed), with potato dinner roll, spinach gorgonzola candied walnut salad, stuffing, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, gravy, orange cranberry sauce, spicy roasted sweet potato, crispy shallot string beans, herbal butter corn on the cob, pumpkin pie with fresh whipped cream and spicy hot apple cider.

LOFT BISTRO and WINE BAR (02) 2766-1682

• $950 ($900 with Advance Ticket)
• Citrus & Thyme Rubbed Roasted Turkey & Gravy, Sage, Sausage, Fennel Stuffing, Roasted Squash & Apple Green Salad,  Pomegranate Cranberry Sauce, Buttery Peas, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Hot Spinach Dip & Pickle Plate, Pumpkin Pie with Bourbon CreamPLUS One glass of white wine, red wine or beer

ON TAP (02) 2741-5365

• NT$700
• Roast Turkey Meal - Stuffing, Mashed Potato, Sweet Potato, Carrots, Green Beans, Corn-on-the-cob, Gravy, Cranberry Sauce, Soup, Homemade Pumpkin Pie, with 1 bottled beer or glass of red/white wine

TO GO -
A great option so that you can have that turkey carving experience and make some of your sides on your own. For most, at least 3 days advance notice and available until the end of December. (And thank you Google Translator and no thanks to hotels that don't put their info in English)

GRAND FORMOSA REGENT- AZIE BUN
WESTIN TAIPEI
JAKE's COUNTRY KITCHEN
BRASS MONKEY

Check last year's Taipei Times article for details on the above restaurants.

CAESAR PARK- CHECKERS (02) 2311-5150, ext 2237 and 2238

• Roasted turkey (5kg) NT$3,000 or (7kg) NT$4,000- Terrazas Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine, Meat Sauce, Cranberry Sauce, Brussels Sprouts, Caesar Salad, Sweet Potato and French Bread. 10 percent discount for orders over NT$5000.

COSTCO

• Roasted turkey $1999
• Pumpkin pies

DAN RYAN'S (02) 8780-9393

• Order 6 days in advance
  
• Whole roast turkeys for NT$2900 (with cranberry sauce and gravy), NT$3900
  (with cranberry sauce, gravy, stuffing and mashed potatoes), or NT$4900 (with cranberry sauce, gravy, stuffing and mashed potatoes) 

ED's DINER (02) 8502-6969 

• $3500 (order by 11/17)
•  Roasted turkey (12-14 pounds) and a sweet potato pie

FLORIDA BAKERY (02) 2702-1175

• Roasted Turkey (10-12 pounds) NT$2,480
• Roasted Turkey (16-18 pounds) NT$3,680
• Roasted Turkey w/ Stuffing (16-18 pounds) NT$4880
• Honey Roasted Ham (4-5 lbs) NT$1,980
• Candied Yam, NT$220 
• Side dishes, NT$450

GRAND HYATT TAIPEI (02) 2720-1200, ext. 3198 or 3199

• Roasted Turkey (5kg) NT$4,900- Bread and Sage Stuffing, Corn on the Cob, Mashed Potatoes, Green BeanCasserole, Cranberry Sauce, Gravy, Mixed Greens with Salad Dressing, Pumpkin Pie,Pecan Pie and Cornbread
• Virginia Ham (7kg) NT$5,900- Corn on the Cob, Mashed Potatoes, Green Bean Casserole, Gravy, Mixed Greens with Salad Dressing, Pumpkin Pie, Pecan Pie and Cornbread

JASON'S SUPERMARKET

LANDIS TAIPEI HOTEL (02) 2598-5558

• Roasted turkey (6kg) NT $ 3,650-  cream corn and vegetables, sweet potatoes with cinnamon and chestnuts, cranberry sauce, gravy
• Pumpkin pie also available

LAWRY'S (02)2729-8555 

• Roasted rosemary and thyme Tennessee turkey (6kg) NT $ 2,900- with stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie and bottle of red wine
• Virginia honey ham (1kg) NT $ 3,400- with stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie and bottle of red wine
• Creamed spinach and creamed corn sides available

LE MERIDIEN HOTEL (02) 6622-5812 or fax (02)6638-8080 (3 days advance notice)

• Roasted turkey (12 pounds) NT$3200- Stuffing with bacon and dried fruits, cranberry sauce, roasted chestnuts, sautéed new potatoes, brussel sprouts,
• Virginia ham NT$2800- Dijon mustard, sautéed new potatoes, brussel sprouts, apple-raisin chutney
• Pecan or pumpkin pie NT$600

SAN WANT HOTEL (02) 2781-7063

• Stuffed roasted turkey (6kg) NT $ 3,388-  cranberry sauce, gravy, two loaves of french bread, orange honey chestnuts, homemade crispy gingerbread

SHERATON TAIPEI - THE DELI (02)2321-5858 ext. 8373

• Roasted Turkey Combo Hamper NT$3,800 - American Roasted Turkey (3.5Kg), Giblet Gravy, Cranberry Kumquat Compote, Cornbread Stuffing with Vegetables and Chestnuts, Lyonnaise Bacon and Small Potatoes, Garden Salad with Caesar Dressing, Tex-Mex Sweet Corn & Tomato Salsa, Pumpkin Bread,  Apple Pie
• Roasted Turkey Hamper NT$2,800- American Roasted Turkey (3.5Kg), Giblet Gravy, Cranberry Kumquat Compote,
• Roasted Virginia Ham Hamper NT$2,800- Roasted Virginia Ham (3.5Kg),  Cranberry Kumquat Compote, Apple Sauce,  Gherkin Mustard
• Side dishes hamper NT$900 (also available individually for NT$150-200)- Cornbread Stuffing with Vegetables and Chestnuts, Lyonnaise Bacon and Small Potatoes, Garden Salad with Caesar Dressing, Tex-Mex Sweet Corn & Tomato Salsa, Pumpkin Bread

SHERWOOD TAIPEI- TOSCANA (02) 2718-6666 Ext. 3001

• Sage roasted turkey (5kg)  NT$3,980-  cranberry sauce and gravy, mashed potatoes, beet salad, homemade Focaccia bread and a hand-made pumpkin pie.

WENDEL'S GERMAN BISTRO AND BAKERY
Tianmu (02) 2831-4415, DaAn (02) 2711-8919, Neihu (02) 8751-3708

• Roasted turkey NT$5,500- gravy, stuffing, glazed chestnuts, brussel sprouts with almond butter, sweet mashed potatoes, pumpkin soup, dessert

So where have you had Thanksgiving in Taipei? At home after slaving over a hot oven all morning? Or taking it easy at one of the other restaurants in town? Let me know if I've left one off the list, or if there's one that's better than the rest! It doesn't quite feel like a holiday with most people having to go to the office or school on Thursday and Friday, but at least we can eat some turkey.