Hello friends!
I received a thoughtful gift package from Tairroir yesterday (thank you, Tairroir!), and it got me reflecting on how much has changed in the Taipei culinary scene over the past few years. I figured it was a good time to update the blog. Not sure who's still out there reading (hello if you're still with me!), but here's a little post to kick off the new year.
When Michelin first began awarding stars in Taipei, there was a fascinating cluster of three neighboring restaurants that collectively earned a total of 6 stars at its peak. These restaurants were at the forefront of Taiwan's fine dining scene being recognized:
RAW – Founded by renowned chef Andre Chiang, RAW quickly became a sensation with its innovative approach, blending local ingredients with French and international techniques.
Ryugin – This was a Japanese restaurant that set itself apart by focusing on traditional Japanese techniques with chef Ryohei Hieda incorporating uniquely Taiwanese ingredients, offering a cross-cultural dining experience unlike anything else in Taipei.
Tairroir – Headed by Chef Kai Ho, Tairroir reinterpreted Taiwanese dishes and flavors, such as tea eggs or oysters cooked in black bean sauce.
In 2018, both Tairroir and RAW jumped from one Michelin star to two, a significant achievement for the Taiwan dining scene. Then, in 2023, Tairroir was awarded the ultimate recognition with three Michelin stars—a rare and prestigious honor that made it the first restaurant focused on modern Taiwanese food to do so.
RAW closed its doors in December 2024 with a "Last Dance" menu after 10 incredible years. Chef Andre Chiang decided it was time to focus on new projects and ventures, leaving behind a legacy that helped put Taipei on the map for fine dining and redefined the way the world saw Taiwanese flavors and ingredients. Ryugin never reopened after a temporary closure in 2022, marking the end of its unique fusion approach to dining in Taiwan.
But fans of RAW and Ryugin can try the new ventures of the chefs behind these influential establishments. In 2023, Chef Alain Huang, who was the "hands" of RAW for many years, opened Restaurant A, and Chef Ryohei Hieda, who had led the two-starred Ryugin, opened Eika. Both earned their own Michelin Star in 2024, and are on my list to try.
And the Michelin landscape in Taiwan keeps growing. There are now over 50 Michelin starred restaurants in Taipei, Taichung and Kaohsiung, but as a list, it can be hit or miss- there are a few places on there that I am not a fan of.
Speaking of evolution, MUME, another leader in the Taipei casual fine dining scene, celebrated its 10th anniversary last year. Chefs Richie Lin, Long Xiong and Kai Ward reunited for a special anniversary dinner, bringing back OG dishes and it was a delicious walk down memory lane. The team’s dedication to both Taiwanese ingredients and sustainability has made it a favorite for those looking for a sophisticated yet approachable dining experience. I can't believe it's been ten years since Mume opened, and it's been amazing to see the empire of restaurants the chefs have each created since 2014 - from modern Australian (Canvas) to tacos (Masa) to modern Thai (Coast) and yakitori (Fumee).
And some new and notable spots to try before Michelin blows them up
- Chef Kin Ming Lam has been busy- he opened Golden and Afterglo after a quick renovation in the space that previously was Curious. He also opened casual noodle spot Little Lam and heads up Akin
- Chef Florence Dalia is one of the few French female chefs in Taipei and opened 16 by Flo after leading Robuchon to two stars. She also has a casual concept Le Cep in the same space.
- Speaking of French restaurants, there's Clover by Jean Francois Piege at Bellavita, Season by Olivier Elzer at W Hotel
- There are a handful of Taiwanese female chefs recognized in the fine dining space- chef Vanessa Huang of Ephernite, chef Dana Yu of D Place, Asia's 50 Best Female Chef Lanshu Chen of Le Cote in Taichung and Le Beajour and Gubami Social in Taipei, chef Justine Li of Michelin Starred Fleur de Sel in Taichung
- Tipsy Sparrow at Le Meridien and Bar by Impromptu opened by Michelin starred chef Paul Lee
- Recent faves this past year- Frassi (Italian by chef Iacapo Frassi), Orchid (modern Japanese with new chef Sato Kiyoshi), Fumee (chicken yakitori with Japanese chef Ryu Shunsuke), Canvas (modern Australian by chef Kai Ward), Zea (Argentinian by chef Joaquin Elizondo) and Inita (chef Kunihiro Hagimoto) (which is the only one I haven't been to, but I loved the dishes by chef Kuni at the collaboration dinner with Fumee). And of course, the usual JL Studio, logy and Mume.
Looking ahead, I’m curious to see what comes next. As we say goodbye to some of these iconic places, there are always new spots to explore and revisit, and I’m excited to continue sharing those with you all. Happy New Year again, and here’s to another delicious year ahead!
2024 TAIWAN MICHELIN
Three Michelin Stars
- Le Palais (Taipei)
- Taïrroir (Taipei)
- JL Studio (Taichung)
Two Michelin Stars
- L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Taipei)
- logy (Taipei)
- Molino de Urdániz (Taipei)
- Mudan (Taipei)
- RAW (Taipei)
One Michelin Star (There are 41 in 2024!)
- A (NEW)
- A Cut
- Ad Astra
- Ban Bo
- Circum- (NEW)
- de nuit
- Eika (NEW)
- Fujin Tree Taiwanese Cuisine & Champagne (Songshan)
- Golden Formosa
- Impromptu by Paul Lee
- INITA
- Ken Anhe
- Kitcho
- Ming Fu
- Mipon
- Mountain and Sea House
- NOBUO (NEW)
- Paris 1930 de Hideki Takayama
- Sens (PROMOTED)
- Shin Yeh Taiwanese Signature
- Sushi Akira
- Sushi Ryu
- Sushiyoshi
- T+T
- The Guest House
- Tien Hsiang Lo
- Wok by O'BOND (NEW)
- Ya Ge
- Yu Kapo
- Zea
TAICHUNG
- Fleur de Sel
- Forchetta
- La Maison de Win
- L'Atelier par Yao (PROMOTED)
- MINIMAL (PROMOTED)
- Oretachi No Nikuya
- Sur-
- YUENJI(NEW)
KAOHSIUNG
- GEN (NEW)
- Haili
- Sho
6 MICHELIN Green Star Restaurants
TAIPEI
- EMBERS
- Hosu
- Little Tree Food (Da'an Road)
- Mountain and Sea House
- Yangming Spring (Shilin)
KAOHSIUNG
- Thomas Chien
