a journal of finding good food and restaurants i love to eat in Taipei when I'm not in Los Angeles. looking forward to hearing from other food lovers about where your favorite places to eat are, so i can try them next!
Monday, April 19, 2010
mall/foodcourt: i recommend BELLAVITA
BELLAVITA
No. 28, Song Ren Road
MRT stop: Taipei City Hall
website: bellavita.com.tw Chinese only (there is an English option on the front page, but is not clickable yet)
$$-$$$
Kid friendliness: posher than most food courts, no high chairs spotted
Visit reviewed: 2/26/2010
Since 101 sprung up in 2004, a forest of shopping malls have proliferated in its shadow in the Xinyi area. I moved back to Taipei about the same time, so I have witnessed the changes and growth in the area. There's Warner/Viewshow Theaters, NY NY, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi x4, Eslite Bookstore, and most recently, Bellavita.
Said to be inspired by the European architecture and style while the founders were visiting Milan, Bellavita is striking from the inside as well with its grand skylight dome overhead.
Where there are malls, there are mall food courts. And as Bellavita is the fanciest mall to spring up, so is its food court- it's so fancy, it's not even called a food court.
Instead it's dubbed a gourmet food hall- it includes an oyster bar, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Fat Angelo's, Habibi Cafe, Cosmopolitan Steak and Grill, patisserie Sadaharu AOKI, gelato, a vegetarian deli and more.
Unlike a typical food court, where you order and get your food and sit in a common area with your dining companions, this one is more like mini restaurants on one floor.
There's no plastic bowls of unagi-dons here.
At 11:30am, we circled around a couple times in virtual emptiness. Did people not know there was a food court open here yet? Was this a bad sign, we thought?
At first glance, you'd have to pick the same cuisine as your friends (which defeats one of the advantages of the diversity of a food court). But if you want hummus and they want sashimi, then go to We Share Everything. Disguised as a restaurant complete with a menu, it's actually the common area for the food hall. You can sit down, order from the extensive menu that includes most of the dining areas in the hall and have a waiter fetch and serve your food for a service fee instead of bringing back the tray yourself. Were you ever annoyed that you didn't get water at a food court? Then you'll be happily at home here where water is poured in glasses for you.
I ordered hummus and moussaka from Habibi and my friends ordered a sashimi bowl and noodles.
At first glance, I was a little miffed at the size of my hummus for the price (NT$200). Sababa had spoiled me, I suppose. The hummus was creamy though it lacked a slight sweetness and the pita was airy and warm.
Then came my moussaka with eggplant (NT$380)- the first and only time I had eaten it was in Chicago about 10 years ago. I don't know what compelled me to order it over the recommended grilled chicken skewers. I guess I wanted to really test Habibi Cafe and see if it was going to be good.
Unfortunately, it wasn't what I remembered. I was expecting more of an eggplant lasagna, but this seemed more like a shepherd's pie, with lots of mashed potatoes atop and minced lamb underneath. I barely found any eggplant and it was kind of lukewarm and greasy. Even though I shared, my friends politely said no after one bite and we probably left about 2/3 of the dish on the plate.
Even more unfortunately, the waiter didn't really care either as when we asked him to take the plate away and said that it wasn't good, he didn't really respond.
Luckily, my friend's bowl of lu shi mian pork noodles (NT$210) were delicious with springy, chubby noodles and tender pork.
My friend who ordered the sashimi bowl (NT$980) and I were still hungry after our orders that we ordered another bowl of noodles to share. She didn't like how most of the pieces of sashimi still had skin on them and some of the fresh didn't seem optimally fresh. She would have been better off with a lunch set from Ton 28 or elsewhere.
Isn't it funny that you can travel the world in a gourmet food court, but the most delicious thing is still a bowl of noodles?
Definitely expensive mistakes for lunch, but there's definitely a lot more to explore.
There's sweets galore for the dessert lovers- gelato, chocolates, macarons, cakes and breads.
I recommend the olive foccacia from Elite Bakery and the chocolate with sea salt bar from Cacao et Chocolat. A bar of chocolate for NT$400- extravagant I know, but a good gift for the chocolate lover in your life. (Ask for a sample to make sure you get the right one!)
Even more decadent and insane to imagine is this gold cake at Elite Bakery- that sells for NT$4800 (about US$150). The entire chocolate cake is covered in gold leaf foil.
I can't imagine the look of shock and confusion that crossed my face when I saw the cake and the ridiculous price tag. Who buys that kind of cake for that kind of price? And what happens when no one buys it for that day? It makes the NT$700 cakes seem like a steal at that point.
But I suppose that's the fun in exploring Bellavita- it doesn't cost anything to browse the pretty things in the pretty atmosphere. When it first opened, there were tons of couples taking photos in front of the fountains at the entrance. Even the shops inside are yet to be fully opened, and those that are there I'd only window shop.
Luckily there are other delicious meals to be found elsewhere in Bellavita- there are quite a few restaurant/bars on the other floors- Ton 28, Haleakala, Beata te, Salon & L'Atelier Robuchon and a3 bar.
The first time I got excited about Bellavita was when I heard it was going to be home to the first Michelin starred chef restaurant in Taiwan- L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. And though I haven't been yet to try the 8 course NT$6000 (or 4 course NT$2600 for lunch) gastronomic heaven meal, I've been saving up a visit for a special occasion. Before that I might visit the more casual Salon de The de Robuchon.
So that's a quick walk through the beautiful life that is Bellavita. Though it took me a few months to visit Bellavita, I did some catching up the last month, so I'll have some more posts coming up the next few weeks showing Haleakala and patisserie Sadaharu AOKI in their own posts.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
american/burgers: i strongly recommend 1885 BURGER STORE
1885 BURGER STORE
24-1 Pucheng St
(02) 2367-8258
MRT: Taipower Bldg
website: 1885burgerstore.com
hours: Mon-Thurs 11:00 am - 10:00 pm
Fri: 11:00 am - 11:00 pm
Sat: 9:30 am - 11:00 pm
Sun: 9:30 am - 10:00 pm
$
Kid friendliness: roomy booths and tables; though beef patties a bit peppery
Visit reviewed: 4/13/2010
Is it only me or have a plethora of burger (and sometimes burgers + brunch) places sprung up the past five years or so in Taipei? Let me count the ways:
- 1-the Diner (2006)
- 2-Forkers (2007)
- 3-California Grill (2007)
- 4-Evan's Burger (2007)
- 5- Posh (2007)
- 6- Good Day (2007)
- 7- KGB Burger (2008)
- 8- JB Burger (2008)
- 9- An Burger (2008)
- 10- Bravo Burger (2008)
- 11- The Door (2009)
- 12- Haleakala (2009)
That list includes the good, the average and the ugly, but in general, it's nice to have some other options besides fast food outlets McD's, Mos Burger and Burger King and sit down chains like Chili's and TGIF. I have yet to try Evan's, An or Bravo Burger, but I'm slowly making my way through the list
My most recent burger adventures is 1885 Burger Store (2009), picked as our lunch spot by my friend Karen. The decor feels somewhere between Western and a diner, with a few chandeliers thrown in.
Maybe they couldn't decide on which Americana kitsch to go with and decided to just go with both. But it's roomy and comfortable with lots of booths with some table seating to accommodate large groups.
You can flip through the Ikea framed menu for the various burgers and breakfast, or choose from the daily special menu or from the chalkboard (which saves you about NT$40 by giving you a free refillable soft drink).
The pineapple bbq grilled chicken burger I get, but what is a Mexican Tartar burger?
Since it was Tuesday, I went with the Mushroom Cheese Burger set (NT$200) and was pleasantly surprised to find that I could change the cheddar cheese to Havarti (or Pepper Jack or Blue Cheese). I chose the wheat bun, but you can also choose a roll or white bun. We also upgraded our drink to a Chocolate Banana shake to share. Other milkshake flavors include Green Tea, Strawberry, Vanilla, Chocolate and Hazelnut Chocolate or you can get a smoothie.
It didn't feel like we waited long for our food and the burgers came plated on a large wooden board with a handle, with fries piled high on a silver pail, and a fork and knife. The pickle was sliced thin so you could put it in your burger.
From looks alone, I was happy with the ratio of toasted bun, burger and accompanying tomato, onions and lettuce.
I hate it when the patty is tiny and the bun is huge, or the restaurant skimps on tomatoes. The first few bites were unusually peppery- I guess they season their patty stronger than usual- but it faded as I kept eating. The seasoned fries were also crispy and hot and filled about half the pail, which was more than enough.
The burger was also satisfying juicy as I must have used at least 5 or 6 napkins to wipe my hands and mouth. I felt like Padma in a Carl's Jr commercial looking for a white shirt to dirty.
Quite close to the Shida night market and National Taiwan University, it was packed full of camera snapping diners and groups noshing mostly on burgers. I'd definitely return here with friends and take them to Yofroyo for dessert, especially since a few of my friends have been unhappy with the size/value of California Grill lately. That's the power of supply and demand- more options to choose from and getting to discover new favorites.
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Monday, April 12, 2010
french: i strongly recommend SAVEURS
SAVEURS
No. 14, Lane 219, Fuxing S. Rd, Sec 1
(02) 2751-0185
hours: lunch 11:30am to 2pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm. Closed Sundays and first Monday every month.
$$
saveurstw.com (Chinese only blog)
Kid friendliness: no high chairs spotted. quite tight space and actually never seen kids there, but kids are welcome
Visit reviewed: 6/23/2009 & 6/27/2009
One of the great perks about this blog is that my friends are always saying, "Oh, I have to introduce you to this restaurant," or "You have to try a bite of my dish." So when my friend S invited a gaggle of our friends to lunch at Saveurs, I couldn't refuse. Saveurs redefined my concept of French food- it's not all about foie gras and truffles and crepes, nor about Chef so and so who's famous for what and what. There's so much more to it- and who thought I'd discover that here in Taipei.
At first glance, you might dismiss Saveurs as another one of those "Western but local" restaurants with its simple and unassuming (almost hidden) storefront and decor, or for its lunch set menu priced at NT$400. That would definitely be a mistake.
French food for US$12? Two pastries at Paul would cost you more than that, but here you'd get not just a main dish, but also a set complete with soup, salad and dessert. How good could it be, I thought? As soon as I tasted dish after dish, I couldn't believe the deal we were getting. I would much rather eat dazzling food in ordinary decor than eat ordinary food in dazzling decor. I'm sure most of you would agree.
If you missed the sign in the front of the day's specials, the waiter rushes through them in Chinese. The first time I went, they handed us the menu, but the following times I didn't get one. Everyone is going to get the lunch special deal anyways. Sometimes they are out of duck or a certain dessert, so make your reservation for the earlier part of lunch hour if you have your heart set on something.
The sliced french bread is soft and addictive, especially if you smear the butter or tapenade on it.
The set appetizers can be upgraded to other appetizers- my friend got escargot (seemingly bathed in pesto) and I mistakenly upgraded to the tuna nicoise salad. I thought when he said tuna in Chinese that he meant that salad, when in fact it was a tuna tartar appetizer.
The soup is always the same, my friend lamented- but I didn't mind. The carrot soup is the perfect consistency and light.
Soon the main dishes come streaming out- our plates of duck, steak, and souris (or braised lamb shank) bathing in different sauce, with a few broccoli florets and a dense serving of baked potato gratin. I could not believe we were getting these portions for NT$400. I expected small, fancy restaurant portions, but we got hearty, rustic sized plates.
I was giddy with excitement with the number of fat slices of duck I had. Then I could not stop eating my dish. The staple of Saveurs, for me, are the sauces. I couldn't quite pinpoint the flavors, but they were sweet, savory and brought out the flavors of the various meats. Okay, yes the duck and lamb shank are perfectly tender and hearty, but the sauce I wanted to lick clean off the plate. Seriously.
Those with a lighter appetite can opt for the fish, but I had a bite of my friend's lamb shank and resolved to order that on my next visit. In truth, I wish I could eat both dishes at the same time. Bring good friends that will share.
Look at the size of this! For NT$400!!
And then come the wonderful desserts.
All of them are equally mouthwatering, but I have to admit my heart belongs to the chocolate moellux- it's like a chocolate cupcake with crack- spongy soft cake with hints of dark chocolate, brownie like top, warm molten lava center. It's a good size too, unlike some places where it's mini sized and gone in two bites.
If you're not a fan of chocolate, there's something for everyone from least sweet to most- an airy cloud of meringue with floating on vanilla sauce, apple tart, crackly creme brulee.
I'd never seen *just* meringue served- usually it's something more flavorful like lemon pie, but it was an interesting texture by itself.
Let's look at the chocolate molleux again from another visit....
Mmmm...
I've had a few disappointing experiences at restaurants where they were famous for the chef that founded them- yet most likely my meal wasn't made by so and so chef so they didn't live up to the hype and expectations. But at this nondescript little restaurant, I had one of the most unexpectedly wonderful meals by a chef whose name I wouldn't know if I didn't look him up on the internet, who isn't famous.
But he should be. Thanks Chef Patrick Cabirol. Even my grandma loved the food!
Dinner sets run from NT$550-$1100 and advance reservations are strongly recommended.
Each time I went to the 25+ seat restaurant it was packed with couples and groups equally enjoying their food. I'm glad Saveurs won favorite French restaurant in the hungryintaipei reader's poll this year, but hopefully I can still get a seat the next time I want to go!
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Saturday, April 10, 2010
revisited/korean: HAPPY KOREAN
HAPPY KOREAN CUISINE
No. 1, Lane 99, Xin Yi Road, Sec 3
(02) 2703-9237
hours: Lunch: 11:30AM- 2PM;
Dinner 5:30PM- 8:30PM
(closed every second and fourth Monday of each month)
$$
Kid friendliness: high chairs available.
Visit reviewed: 4/8/2010
Previous review: 4/15/2008 - previously a strong recommend
A relationship with a restaurant is a lot like one with your friends (or lovers) in real life. With some friends, years can pass, hairstyles can change, babies are born, but once you see them- it's like nothing has changed. The conversation is nonstop, laughter makes your cheeks hurt and you can't believe so many years have passed since you've first met. Those are the golden ones. A restaurant you can return to after years and still savor the same flavors and favorite dishes that made you first fall in love with the place.
With other relationships, you might wonder what you did wrong to get the cold shoulder from your former BFF- awkward pauses in the conversation, having nothing in common anymore and feeling sadness realizing that somehow you've grown in different directions that can't be sustained by past experiences. I think these feelings for me are intensified since moving to Taipei- distance and time really magnifies those unbreakable friendships or the fact that people move on when you're gone and you can no longer connect with them.
Happy Korean is now my former BFF and I'm really sad. I don't know when and I don't why, but my formerly favorite lunch spot for Korean food has changed owners. And the changes the new management has taken will definitely hurt its business.
I stopped in for lunch yesterday, excited to grab a heaping bowl of bulgogi over rice and maybe some cold noodles and was surprised to find that the area that used to house a little play area for kids was gone. It now had the fridge for drinks and prep/storage area for the panchan. Then when we got the menu, it was about five wooden spoons with black sharpie writing on it, with Chinese on one side, English on the other. There was bulgogi, bimbimbap, ginseng chicken soup, a stirfried squid dish and a pork belly, with prices about NT$100 more than before per dish.
I asked about the old menu and that's when we learned that Happy Korean had a new owner. I asked if the bulgogi was the same (otherwise I'd get the hard-to-mess-up bimbimbap in a stone bowl) and she said yes, but just not over rice. I think she said that they had the same chef, but now I'm doubtful.
Our panchan came out quickly enough, but it was slightly different from previous experiences. Gone were the japchae glass noodles, instead some pickled radishes. Another customer came in seemed surprised by the new menu.
When we got our food, I had a bad feeling because it didn't look the same. And it wasn't. It was slightly tougher as thicker slices. The entire time I was eating it, I lamented to my friend how I couldn't believe it. If I had been there for the first time, I might have thought the place was decent, but once you compare something average to something you loved, it can't hold up. I mourned the loss like it was a real relationship.
The funniest thing is that today I got an unsolicited text from my friend. She went there for dinner yesterday while she didn't know I had stopped by for lunch on the same day.
"I went to happy korean kitchen last night. apparently the owner has left and the food was terrible! only six items on the menu. i miss my cold noodle! :("
So I definitely can't strongly recommend Happy Korean anymore, but will be happy to hear if anyone has a different experience in the future. Anyone know of a new BFF who will serve us some cold naengmyun or galbi jjim?
Have you ever went back to a favorite restaurant to discover it was gone or no longer the same?
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