japanese/sushi: i recommend NCIS SUSHI

NCIS SUSHI 

No. 4, Lane 216, Alley 27, ZhongXiao E. Rd, Sec. 4 

大安區忠孝東路四段216巷27弄4號

(02) 2721-6952 

MRT: Zhongxiao/Dunhua

website: NCIS FB page

hours: 11:30AM - 9:30AM

$$ (about NT$400-500/person)

Kid friendliness: no high chairs available. many non-raw options available

Visit reviewed: 9/26/2012

Finding dreamy sashimi in Taipei is no problem, but finding those mega rolls like I used to devour from California Roll Factory back in the states is more of a challenge. When I first moved back, I craved spicy tuna piled atop crispy rice, and crab, tempura salmon, avocado rolls wrapped in soy paper with the contents so full, they would almost fall out if you didn't stuff the whole thing in your mouth.  So when I first started hearing from friends that I had to try NCIS, or Nor Cal Inspired Sushi opened by a guy from Northern California, I was excited.

I first heard about NCIS over a year ago, when it was in the Shida night market, but I heard it was only open at night and quite tiny, so I didn't get a chance to try it. But when NCIS moved east to a bigger joint near Lane 216 and Zhongxiao East Road, it was time to check it out.

The long space is filled with two rolls of seating, one for couples and the other group so tables that can be pushed together for larger groups. There's also sushi bar style seating in the back, if you want to be able to spy the rolls being made while you eat.

The English and Chinese menu is expansive with lots of creative "rollz" including hand rolls, vegetarian rolls, and rolls with fun names like BMW, Toyota, Sofa King Bomb, or Puff Daddy, as well as appetizers, "old school nigiri" and "not so japanese fusion dishes". There's a lot to choose from, so everyone can even non-sashimi eaters can enjoy, and prices are very reasonable for rolls from NT$75 - NT$300.

If you're looking for some unusual rolls, look for MacNugget (comes with chicken nuggets), Mr. Sho (comes with onion rings and french fries) or Taiwan's Largest roll for NT$2500 which is comped if you can finish it in 45 minutes! There's also over 10 vegetarian rolls available, as well as vegan sashimi, which was the big draw for my friend who recommended it to me first.

The unagi bowl is surprisingly full for the price, with thin slices generously covering the rice. The eel is tender and covered with the right amount of sauce.

We start off with the Tunalicious (NT$270) and Marilyn Monroll (NT$220), which come with a nice 8 pieces per roll. 

The Tunalicious has spicy tuna and cucumber inside and more spicy tuna and sauce atop, and is more spicy than sweet. I prefer the Marilyn Monroll which has tempura shrimp and crab inside and scallop and avocado atop with bit of masago. While the pieces are not as big as I'd hoped, there are a lot of pieces for the price.

Admiring the decor while waiting for my other friend to arrive. NCIS could be a fun place for date night, or night out, with the 90s R and B blasting on the the speaker.

We ask the waiter what the sign is for, since it looks like a Wheel of Fortune game for free sushi, and he responds it's for birthday customers. My friend's birthday was actually that day (for real!), but he then mutters something like, oh, it's not really available yet. We are the only customers there and he doesn't let us try the wheel? Kind of puts a bummer on the experience. 

We then try the BMW (NT$250) which is quite similiar to the Marilyn Monroll, but swaps out the scallops for salmon. 

I also enjoyed the Spicy Ji Jimmy (NT$250) which comes topped with unagi and avocado and filled with spicy tuna and fried shrimp.

The eel is sliced pretty thinly, but not too much that you don't get the flavor. However, the use of the same sauces in the rolls end up making the rolls all meld into one memory. That sometimes happens at most roll places though, since there's only so many ingredients that you're working with and we are ordering variations of the same thing. 

My least favorite roll that day was the Pony A Gogo (NT$250), or the soft shell crab roll, which is usually a must order for me. When it came, the size was good, but the yellow avocado wasn't a good sign. One bite proved right- it was bitter and hard, probably not ripe yet and definitely not a Haas avocado. We asked the waiter to try it and after some friendly back and forth, he offered to give a discount on the roll.  For me, using Taiwan avocados isn't a deal breaker, but it definitely reminds me that I'm not in Cali.

All in all, NCIS is a good place to have in the rolodex (or HungryinTaipei app) and is one of those places you root for to thrive in Taipei. Its new location is actually not too far from Sumi Sushi, the other roll place in town where there will be the most comparisons. For the soft shell crab roll and scallops, I'll still go to Sumi Sushi. But the roomier digs and better prices are a draw to try NCIS again, especially with a big group. 

Don't forget to vote for your favorite Taipei restaurants in this year's Readers' Choice Poll! If you like NCIS, you can vote for it for best sushi, or best japanese, or best new restaurant in 2012.

french: i strongly recommend L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

at Bellavita

No. 28, SongRen Road, 5FL, Xinyi District
(02) 8729-2628

MRT: Taipei City Hall

website: robuchon.com.tw

hours: 11:30AM- 2:30PM; 6PM- 10PM 

$$$-$$$$ 

Kid friendliness: not sure if there is a no kid policy, but have never seen kids there. 

Visit reviewed: 10/25/2012

When I saw that Chef Joël Robuchon was going to be in town for a week at the Taipei L'Atelier, I made reservations about a month before the dinner.  I had heard about him being in town before, but never managed to plan ahead, so I was excited to book enough seats for a group of friends dining there for the first time. After all, if you're going to splurge on a meal, it might as well be when the most Michelin-starred chef in the world was in town and everyone in the kitchen should be hustling to deliver.

Opened in 2009, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon was the first restaurant opened in Taipei by a Michelin starred chef. It kicked off the wave of Michelin starred chefs in Taipei that followed- STAY at 101 by Chef Yannick Alleno, La Festa by Chef Igor Macchia, or visiting chefs like Chef Trincado or Chef Batavia. When it first opened, I honestly wondered if there were enough people in Taipei who would want to (and could afford to) dine at Robuchon to keep it in business. I heard good things, but the price tag somehow kept me from going until I felt like there was a special enough reason to go.

Each of the L'Atelier de Joël Robuchons around the world (Paris, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Las Vegas, Singapore and London) feature sushi bar style counter seating in front of an open kitchen, said to be inspired by Robuchon's time spent in Japan. The Taipei branch has dramatic red and black decor, from the moment you step out of the Bellavita elevator onto the 5th floor.

You could sit at the tables along the wall, but it's not as fun as being one of the diners that have a front row seat to the bustling kitchen.

On this night, we were asked to look at three different set menus and choose in advance, to expedite service since the restaurant was fully booked and we had a large group of 9 people. Half of us decided on getting the six course Menu Plaisir (NT$4280), and the other half ordered the eight course Menu Decouverte. Luckily, I got to taste both menus by splitting with a friend, as well as drink the bubbly that was ordered. Everything was divine and there is nothing better than sharing good food with great friends. We oohed and aahed at the plating, the flavors and the company. I was probably the most excited about getting the night's menu signed by Chef Robuchon and our group photo with him.

So here's a look at the Menu Plaisir. Hope the photos from the 4s capture the dishes... I wanted to be quick, so I didn't use my DSLR that night.

L'Amuse Bouche- foie gras mousse, port wine gelee and parmasean foam. Served warm, the sweet and savory flavors mingle together to start the meal. 

L'Hamachi - hamachi tartare with tomato juices and mustard seed. 

Le Potiron- pumpkin soup with country bread crouton and olive oil

Le Cabillaud- pan seared cod in a vierge sauce with a brandade croquette and mashed parsley

Le Boeuf- red wine braised beef cheek with polenta puree. This was pretty amazing.

I was a bit annoyed to find out that despite making reservations a month in advance, and asking for the best night that we did not get the "gala" night and menu, so L'Atelier graciously upgraded those of us with the Plaisir menu with the chocolate sphere instead of the pineapple dessert that came with the set.

It's always exciting when there's pouring action.

Let's crack this baby open...

Yum. Perfect ending to wonderful dinner.

For an all out splurge, go for the Menu Decouverte tasting menu (NT$6880) with 8 courses. There were definitely dishes on this that I felt wowed by over the other menu when you put them side by side. Since I had ordered the Menu Plaisir, and sharing the Decouverte, there were definitely dishes that I wish I could eat the whole plate instead of only half, like the scallops and the foie gras.

La Noix De Saint-Jacques- sea scallop carpaccio with caviar, lemon dressing and chives. Perfection.

Les Palourdes- "Lorighittas" pasta with clams, bottarga and tomatoes flavored with basil concasse. This was really nice. Fresh pasta, not too heavy. The braided shape was unusual and gave for a nice bite.

Le Homard- Steamed lobster ragout with girolle and peas in a bisque

Le Foie Gras- Roasted duck foie gras with carmelized seasonal fruit and almond. 

Yes, thank you.

L'Amadai- Shallow fried Amadai in a fine yuzu flavored daikon consomme with lily bulb.

At first glance, I thought the fish was covered in panko crumbs, but the server explained that it was actually the skin of the fish. 

When fried, the paper thin scales crisp up for a crunchy contrast to the perfectly cooked, tender snapper.

It was quite a trip, trying it for the first time. Definitely more exciting than the cod in the other set.

Le Porc- Pan seared iberico pork with shishito and shallots confit. 

I didn't love this dish, probably because I'm not a big fan of shishito. I ended up eating more of the beef cheek from the other set.

Le Pamplemousse- Fresh grapefruit sorbet with lime jelly. The beginning of the end.

La Vanille- Madagascar vanilla in profiteroles with rum flavor and bitter chocolate sorbet. 

This sculpted dessert was gorgeous, but how can you beat a dome of chocolate? 

Le Cafe Express- Coffee or tea with a macaron.

I had a much more memorable experience this time than I did last summer, when I had a three course lunch and felt slightly underwhelmed by the service and the food, perhaps having too high expectations for my first visit (comparing it to my meals at Abu Authentic and Tutto Bello). I think to dine at a place like L'Atelier, you have to indulge in a tasting menu to get the full ride.  The vibe was also different with the energy of a full house, in contrast to last year where my dining date and I noticed one of the chefs doing a little yelling at the other chefs, one downfall of an open kitchen, I suppose. 

For a mini Robuchon experience, diners can also try SALON DE THE de Joël Robuchon (Bellavita, 3F) which has a more casual menu and afternoon tea, as well macarons and breads available to go. 

Au revoir until we meet again.

Don't forget to vote for your favorite Taipei restaurants in this year's Readers' Choice Poll!